For the most part, the weather was super hot and humid, but I knew this would be the case. August in southern Japan is as predictable as winter in Antarctica. In many of the pictures that follow, you might notice a small towel around my neck. This was to constantly wipe the sweat from my face while in some of the more humid places like Kyoto, Osaka, and Nara.
Traveling with 4 girls was interesting, to say the least. If you're a guy, I wouldn't recommend it. The estrogen to testosterone level was tipped in their favor, as was evident in the numerous pit stops to local boutiques and clothing outlets. In the bible when it mentions that it's easier for a camel to pass through the eye of a needle than for a rich man to enter into the kingdom of heaven, I think the Chris Sturgis translation will read, "it's easier for a camel to go through the eye of a needle than to get four women to get ready on time." Nevertheless, it was a great vacation and I enjoyed the company.
Although some of the sights I had seen before, most of the touristy things we saw were new to me. The following is a rather long description of our general itinerary. Feel free to skip the narrative and go right to the pictures.
SATURDAY:
Since Gabby lives in LA, and I live in Boston, we were not on the same flight. Ironically we still arrived within 20 minutes of each other and met up in the baggage claim area. From there, we took a train and then a taxi to the New Sanno Hotel in Tokyo where we met up with Gabby's friend Meredith, and Meredith's two cousins, Alicia and Ashley.
Gabby and Meredith in their cozy western style bed - no futons tonight.
SUNDAY:
Our first activity of the day would be a trip to Harajuku, recently made (more) famous my Gwen Stefani and her love of Japan fashion and her "harajuku girl" dancers. Harajuku is the section in Tokyo were anything goes in fashion. Girls (and guys, too, apparently!) are seen wearing a myriad of unique outfits, from punk styles, to preppy, to school-girl to goth. Between walks down some of the busier streets, we stopped at some of the larger stores there, including Forever 21, H &M, Gap, as well as numerous local shops. After Harajuku, we simply crossed to street to view the Meiji Shrine, one of the more famous shrines in the greater Tokyo area. We then took a train to Tokyo Tower where we walked around the observation deck which was located about half-way up the tower.
Our first activity of the day would be a trip to Harajuku, recently made (more) famous my Gwen Stefani and her love of Japan fashion and her "harajuku girl" dancers. Harajuku is the section in Tokyo were anything goes in fashion. Girls (and guys, too, apparently!) are seen wearing a myriad of unique outfits, from punk styles, to preppy, to school-girl to goth. Between walks down some of the busier streets, we stopped at some of the larger stores there, including Forever 21, H &M, Gap, as well as numerous local shops. After Harajuku, we simply crossed to street to view the Meiji Shrine, one of the more famous shrines in the greater Tokyo area. We then took a train to Tokyo Tower where we walked around the observation deck which was located about half-way up the tower.
Riding the Tokyo subway. The public transportation system in Japan is masterful and would put to shame anything we have here in the US.
Security guards and lines out the door at Forever 21!?!
A harajuku girl.
The main drag in Harajuku. Can you say crowded?
It's not only the girl who have fun with their costumes. I love the look on the guy in the background. Priceless!
More weirdos.
The entrance to the Meiji shrine
Rain delay portrait.
This was hiliarious. There was a set-up there in which you could purchase wood block tablets to write your wishes/hopes on. This one cracked me up.
Tokyo Tower, day.
Enjoying the views from the Observation deck.
Tokyo Tower, night.
This phallus shaped character is the Tokyo tower mascot. Creepy.
You wish, Alicia, you wish!
MONDAY:
We got a late start and didn't leave out hotel until after 11am, but found our way to the Tokyo Train Station where we got our Shinkansen (Bullet Train) tickets to travel to Osaka. Since Osaka, Kyoto, and Nara are relatively close, we choose to stay in Osaka since it seems somewhat central to that area and allowed us to travel easily to other areas. We stayed three nights at the Osaka Club Hokke Hotel where we stayed in traditional Japanese style hotel rooms, called "ryoukan." Our ryoukan rooms were small, but cozy. We slept on futons which were set on tatami matted floors. On the top floor was an "ofuro" (public bath house) overlooking the city. After we got settled into our hotel we hopped a train and went to Namba, the covered shopping center of Osaka. While in Namba, we stopped at numerous shops, enjoyed the sights and sounds of Osaka and had dinner at a "kaiten" sushi restaurant. Kaiten sushi places are special sushi restaurants were you sit at a bar and the sushi comes past the patrons on a conveyor belt system and you simply take small plates of sushi that you would like to eat. Generally, these plates have 2 piece of sushi on them. At the end of dinner you pay based on how many plates you have. Even though these "kaiten" sushi places are all over Japan, this was actually my first time ever eating at one. My seven plates of sushi came to 910 yen, or about $9 - well worth it.
We got a late start and didn't leave out hotel until after 11am, but found our way to the Tokyo Train Station where we got our Shinkansen (Bullet Train) tickets to travel to Osaka. Since Osaka, Kyoto, and Nara are relatively close, we choose to stay in Osaka since it seems somewhat central to that area and allowed us to travel easily to other areas. We stayed three nights at the Osaka Club Hokke Hotel where we stayed in traditional Japanese style hotel rooms, called "ryoukan." Our ryoukan rooms were small, but cozy. We slept on futons which were set on tatami matted floors. On the top floor was an "ofuro" (public bath house) overlooking the city. After we got settled into our hotel we hopped a train and went to Namba, the covered shopping center of Osaka. While in Namba, we stopped at numerous shops, enjoyed the sights and sounds of Osaka and had dinner at a "kaiten" sushi restaurant. Kaiten sushi places are special sushi restaurants were you sit at a bar and the sushi comes past the patrons on a conveyor belt system and you simply take small plates of sushi that you would like to eat. Generally, these plates have 2 piece of sushi on them. At the end of dinner you pay based on how many plates you have. Even though these "kaiten" sushi places are all over Japan, this was actually my first time ever eating at one. My seven plates of sushi came to 910 yen, or about $9 - well worth it.
Tokyo to Osaka, 120 MPH.
Kaiten sushi
Notice the sushi on the conveyor belt.
TUESDAY:
Our first excursion of the day brought us to Osaka Castle, one of the most famous castles in Japan. With the weather being hot and humid, the long walk to the castle mixed in with a few sets of stairs could've been more pleasant, but the castle itself was gorgeous and the views from the top were great. Lunch was at a restaurant right next to the castle where the girls had Reimen (cold noodles), tempura udon, and mugi-cha tea. I had curry rice...mmm. From Osaka Castle we walked to the Osaka Peace Museum, a museum dedicated to those who lost their lives during the WWII bombings by the American's. The museum was enlightening and depicted in great detail some descriptive personal accounts of the war. One of the most interesting things I read was when I first entered the museum. An introductory placard clearly blamed Japan itself for the horrors of the bombings at Osaka. Throughout the museum, there were no attempts to save face as the museum portrayed numerous accounts of heinous war crimes committed by Japanese soldiers in China and elsewhere in the Pacific, as well as placing blame on the Japanese for "awakening a giant" after the bombings at Pearl Harbor. The video footage and photographs were a grim reminder of the tensions that once existed between Japan and the United States - a stark contrast to today. From there, we went on to the Osaka Aquarium, which housed an enormous fish tank containing thousands of fish, sharks, rays, octopus, etc. The best part of the aquarium was the section where you could touch the sting rays, get right next to the penguins, and see other oceanic creatures face to face. Dinner that night was at a Turkish, all-you-can-eat joint in a shopping complex next to the aquarium.
Our first excursion of the day brought us to Osaka Castle, one of the most famous castles in Japan. With the weather being hot and humid, the long walk to the castle mixed in with a few sets of stairs could've been more pleasant, but the castle itself was gorgeous and the views from the top were great. Lunch was at a restaurant right next to the castle where the girls had Reimen (cold noodles), tempura udon, and mugi-cha tea. I had curry rice...mmm. From Osaka Castle we walked to the Osaka Peace Museum, a museum dedicated to those who lost their lives during the WWII bombings by the American's. The museum was enlightening and depicted in great detail some descriptive personal accounts of the war. One of the most interesting things I read was when I first entered the museum. An introductory placard clearly blamed Japan itself for the horrors of the bombings at Osaka. Throughout the museum, there were no attempts to save face as the museum portrayed numerous accounts of heinous war crimes committed by Japanese soldiers in China and elsewhere in the Pacific, as well as placing blame on the Japanese for "awakening a giant" after the bombings at Pearl Harbor. The video footage and photographs were a grim reminder of the tensions that once existed between Japan and the United States - a stark contrast to today. From there, we went on to the Osaka Aquarium, which housed an enormous fish tank containing thousands of fish, sharks, rays, octopus, etc. The best part of the aquarium was the section where you could touch the sting rays, get right next to the penguins, and see other oceanic creatures face to face. Dinner that night was at a Turkish, all-you-can-eat joint in a shopping complex next to the aquarium.
Osakajo
Notice the gross sweat marks on my shoulders even after I took my backpack off!! Can you said hot and humid? Showers have never felt so good!
The girls enjoying lunch on the grounds of Osakajo
Outside the Osaka Aquarium - the best aquarium I have been to.
The girls inside one of the tunnels.
Meredith with some of the scariest looking animals I have ever seen! These things look like super rats! However, they seemed pretty docile and even made a purring sounds similar to a cat. Go figure.
Gabby and Alicia playing with the fish and sting rays.
Outside the Aquarium on our way to dinner.
Good food! While in Japan I earned my master black belt in eating!
WEDNESDAY:
We traveled to Kyoto, Japan's former capital city before Tokyo. Our first stop was at Kinkakuji, Japan's famous castle covered in gold leaf. I have wanted to see this sight for years, but was a bit disappointed to realize how small it is. Entry inside the structure is not allowed. Our next tourist sight was Nijojo, and ancient palace for feudal lords. We got there a bit late and were the last group allowed in. Although I had seem this temple in my 2007 trip to Japan, the girls enjoyed walking on the nightingale floors and reading up on the history of some of the ancient Japanese rituals. There is a flower garden/pond surrounding the grounds which adds a nice element to the area. Because we were the last groups allowed in, it was no surprise when grounds workers were anxiously waiting for us to leave, but as we got closer and closer to exiting, the incessant invites to hurry up were strange. Once we exited the compound, it all made sense - they were waiting for us to leave because they had an entire film crew set up to shoot what appeared to be some sort of ancient samurai-type film. After our brisk exit from Nijojo, we briefly walked around the Kyoto Imperial Palace but were not allowed entry into the actual buildings. Apparently special permission is needed and we didn't have it.
Standing next to Kinkakuji (the Golden Palace)
Looking for fish in the gardens surrounding Nijojo.
Some of the characters getting ready for the film shoot.
On a bridge at the Kyoto Imperial Gardens
THURSDAY:
Thursday was the day I split off from the four girls who went further south to spent time with Alicia and Ashley's parents who are serving a mission in Fukuoka. Although I would love to have visited Fukuoka, a section of Japan I have never been to, I looked forward to taking this time to travel in the opposite direction to spend some time with my parents who are living in Nozumi, Niigata. Before I went back to Tokyo to transfer out to Niigata, I made a brief detour to Nara to visit an old friend from my mission days, Chinatsu Okita. Chinatsu (Sister Okita) was in the Kushiro area when I first started my two year mission back in 1998 and we've kept in touch ever since then. When she arrived at the Nara train station I barely recognized her since she had lost so much weight. I wish that was the case with me! I didn't have too much time to spend with Chinatsu, unfortunately, since I needed to catch a train, but we did have an hour or so to walk to Nara Park, Nara's most famous attraction that is home to hundreds of domesticated deer, eager for a free snack. Although I have been to this park about 20 years ago, it was fun to be back. Even with the blazing hot sun and the brutal humidity, it was refreshing to walk around town with a good friend. After yet another Shinkansen ride, I was finally able to met up with my parent's that night at the Nagaoka Station where they picked me up and drove me to Nozumi, my Mom's hometown and location of many childhood memories. It was refreshing to know that the weather was much more comfortable there than southern Japan. Luckily for me, it was Obon - a time of year when many people travel to see family and celebrate their ancestry. So, in addition to me, my grandfather's house was also temporary quarters to my aunt Yoko, my great-uncle Seishiro, his wife Keiko, and their Pomeranian dog, Cherry. My Great-Aunt, Mini was there with her husband, and, of course, my Grandfather (Ojii-chan) was there.
Meeting up with Chinatsu Okita.
Feeding the deer (shika) at Nara Park
FRIDAY:
Friday started off under somewhat gloomy conditions, but the weather had nothing to do with it. I tagged along to a funeral of a close friend of my parent's. Their former branch president of their Mormon church passed away due to complications dealing with stomach and liver cancer. Apparently he was diagnosed with the ailment in December, and being too late to operate, the cancer took his life less than nine months later. He was only 45 years old and left behind a wife and two teenage children. Sad. After the funeral, my mom dropped my dad and I off at the local train station where we hopped on a local train towards Niigata City. From there, my dad gave me a personal tour of Seiryo High School, where he is a part time English teacher. Afterwards we walked around, did some shopping, and ate dinner before finally heading back to Nozumi.
(Sorry, no pictures for Friday)
SATURDAY:
My dad and I went out to a few local places including a drive up to the top of the mountain that is the backdrop to my grandfather's house. We also visited a few temples/shrines, a local lighthouse, and some nearby beach spots. Later that evening there was a little Obon festival in the streets were we watched some traditional Japanese dancing done by the locals. To end the day, Dad and I went to Taiko No Yu Onsen, a natural hot spring public bathhouse in the adjacent town.
At a mountain-top launching pad for hang-gliders.
Father and son
Footbridge
Exploring the nearby beaches
Dad.
Obon dancing in the tiny little town of Nozumi, where my grandfather (and parents) live.
SUNDAY:
It's been a tradition at my Grandfather's house to send out a bouquet or small straw-made boat out into the ocean during the morning in celebration of the Obon holiday. I'm not sure of all of the details of why, but basically it's a sign of remembrance to those ancestors that passed on. In the past, my Uncle had the honors of swimming into the ocean and releasing the offering into the sea. Unfortunately, my uncle is not on the nest terms with my grandfather right now, so being the most junior person there by about 30 years, I was given the "honor" of getting into the cold ocean water to set of the offering, which would inevitably just wash right back to shore within the hour. Regardless, I dutifully swam out and pushed the offering out. Once I swam back to shore, however, I was asked to send another one out as well. By this time, my body had acclimated to the cold water and felt somewhat comfortable. Bouquet #1 was quickly joined by bouquet #2. After a quick shower and a few farewells, it was off to Tokyo once again to meet up with Gabby and Meredith, who were returning from Fukuoka. On the Shinkansen ride back to Tokyo, I was accompanied by my Aunt Yoko who was returning to her home in Chiba, just outside Tokyo. Once in Tokyo, we said our goodbye's and went our separate ways. Ironically, I was heading to a different part of Chiba to spend the next few days at my cousin Masami's house. Masami is the oldest son of my aunt Yoko. When I got to Masami's house, my other cousin, Aiko was there with her husband and two little boys. It was good to catch up with everyone, but unfortunately I wasn't able to see Masami's wife and newborn baby, Yua. who were down in Nara visiting family. Gabby and Meredith joined us later that night.
Walking to the beach from my Grandfather's (Ojii-chan) house.
Coming back to shore after sending off the offerings.
Aunt Mini, Mom, Aunt Yoko, Uncle Seishiro watching on.
Some local townsfolk. Apparently, I'm related to some (most?) of them.
MONDAY:
Monday would be our last full day in Japan. We started the day by going to Tsukiji, a world-famous section of Tokyo known for its fresh fish and delectable sushi. We missed the hustle and bustle of the fish auctions that take place most mornings there, but we were able to eat some great sushi at one of the many nearby sushi bars. From there, we went to Shinjuku, a major shipping hub of Tokyo. We did a bit of window shopping and found our way to a museum only to find it was closed. The local park in Shinjuku, however, was a fun place to visit despite it being a gathering place for many of the homeless in the area. Afterwards, we took a train to Akihabara, another shopping center in Tokyo known for its large array of low-priced electronics. Besides getting an 8GB thumb drive for about $15, I steered clear of buying cameras, camcorders, etc. After work, Masami met up with us and we ate some great "gyoudon" from a local diner.
Fresh sushi from Tsukiji fish market.
Relaxing and trying out the exercise section of the park in Shinjuku. My back needed a good stretch!
Eating gyudon (raw egg and all!) with my cousin Masami.
With Gabby and Meredith as they had their first taste of gyudon, minus the raw egg!
With Masami right before we headed home for the night.
TUESDAY:
Flew back to the states
Flew back to the states
